Siurana had been on my bucket list ever since I first sunk my fingers into sharp pockets and took big, airy whips on the steep overhangs of Wild Iris, the orange streaked walls of Shelf Road, and the summer camp vibes of Tensleep. We hear a lot about these sport climbing Meccas—from the media, from the pros. And while I’m more of a trad/crack climber at heart, I’ll never say no to some good old bolt-clipping fun. With a little help from Ocún, Siurana finally landed on the calendar last winter, and I was stoked to head overseas and see what all the fuss was about.
I traveled to Spain to meet up with some friends for a short stint in Chulilla (which is also well worth a visit if you’re already across the pond), then continued on to Siurana with one of my OG partners-in-crime and fellow Ocún athlete, Becca Droz, her lovely fiance Nikki, and my partner and fellow YOSAR teammate Jack. With our group’s climbing abilities ranging from moderate to elite, we looked for crags that had a little something for everyone. Below is a list of areas where you can cruise 5.10s or test yourself on technical 5.13 crimpfests. And maybe even more important—read on for where to find the best bread and croissants, cool spots to visit on rest days, and some practical tips for groceries and food.
Crags
Espero Primavera
Espero Primavera was one of our most-visited crags. It’s a popular spot, so you can usually expect to see a decent number of other climbers around. Right where the trail meets the wall, you’ll find some mid-tier routes, but if you keep heading climber’s left toward the canyon opening, you’ll start to see taller, cleaner, and more pristine walls rising up on your right.
We really enjoyed the 5.11 warmups here, like Lamparos Toca el Dos, and ended up projecting some of the area’s beautiful classics, including Mandragora. If you continue farther looker’s left, you’ll come to a detached pillar known as El Cargol. This small sector features a mix of slippery, technical routes, and enjoyable slabby climbs like La Morena del Montsant and Via Normal. I couldn’t resist giving the cave-corner ‘crack’ climb, Fisura del Cargol, a try—it was fun and definitely worth a go.
If you’re looking to try something harder, keep walking past El Cargol and you’ll hit El Pati— home to some of the most iconic hard routes in Siurana. This is where you’ll spot sport bros, dark horses, and pros throwing themselves at steep, unforgiving lines. Bring a stick clip, especially if you’re not a fan of taking airy—and sometimes spicy—whippers.
Arbolí
We found Arbolí to be incredibly lovely, with a grand view and amazing rock. It’s a great crag for cooler days, since it gets full sun almost all day! Warm up on routes like Borinot, then check out nearby lines like Haber Pedido Muerte if you’re looking to level up the challenge—perfectly spaced pocket jugs await. For something steeper and pumpier, head uphill to the 12b corner Pa Ella y Pa los Guiris. Don’t be fooled by the rumors that it is a crack climb, the crux is actually a boulder problem!
Siuranella
This is the prominent wall on the left as you begin the drive into the canyon. I spent a lot of time at Siuranella (North), which is packed with climbs in the 5.11 to 5.13 range, great for practicing onsight climbing. Some of the approaches require a ladder, which makes the north end a bit tricky if you’ve got a dog with you, but the south, central, and north sectors all offer incredible lines. Thanks to the wall’s wrap-around aspect, you can chase sun or shade depending on the time of day.
Montsant
This was one of our favorite zones—even though it’s technically not in Siurana. Montsant is known for its sprawling walls and pristine, sustained pocket climbing. When your tips are shredded from crimping, head to Montsant—you’ll still be pulling hard, but on sharp pockets instead of edges.
A great area to warmup is the looker’s left side of Raco de Misa where several 5.11 lines branch from a shared set of starting bolts. Then explore climber’s right to try out some of the most classic lines, like Catalonia is Not Patagonia and La Terra Promesa. Go for the onsite—these routes tend to have holds everywhere you need them, with only a few crux moves here and there (Sorry to ruin your onsight).
And don’t forget a long, skinny rope—some of these lines eat up a full 40 meters!
Weather & Season (January through February)
We found ourselves in an unusually warm winter in Siurana—which, honestly, felt wonderful. We could chase sun or shade depending on the temps, which ranged from 50º F to 70º F. Locals said it was about 10º warmer than usual, so definitely bring layers and puffies just in case. We still busted out the puffy pants a few times, and I often belayed in my puffy when we were tucked in the shade
We found climbing in the sun when it was over 65º F to be pretty warm, but this will just depend on what type of climber you are. If you do end up chasing the sun, keep in mind that warm temps plus sharp crimps can be a recipe for shredded fingertips! On hotter days, we opted for some good old-fashioned hangboard warmups back at our place before heading out.
Sun vs shade: The guidebook was super helpful for tracking sun and shade throughout the day. Siuranella wraps around the hillside, so you can easily move between sun and shade just by walking along the wall. Piqui Pugui is a great location worth checking out when you want shade. If you want sun, Montsant is where it’s at—stunning views, gorgeous landscape, and endless tall limestone walls with vert and overhang. It is usually tree covered for the belayer, so bring layers if it is chilly!
Ocún Levit Lady
A three-buckle women’s harness designed with female anatomy in mind. The Levit Lady features an innovative 3-way weight distribution system and durable Cordura® fabric, offering long-lasting comfort even during long days on the wall. Three stainless steel buckles provide secure, stable adjustment – perfect for intensive use, including in coastal crags like Siurana, where corrosion resistance is key.
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Food and Drink (Cornudella de Montsant)
Café Aimar
Our favorite cafe was Aimar, where they make fresh pastries and bread daily. Some of the bread falls into the typical fluffy, mild Catalan style—but their pan con semillas (seed bread) stole my heart. It was so good we basically refused to buy any other kind of bread. They also served some of the most delicious chocolate croissants I’ve ever had. On rest days, I’d camp out at a corner table from open to close, munching croissants, sipping cappuccinos, using the Wi-Fi, and painting by the window. After a couple of weeks, we were on a first-name basis with the staff—I really hope to see them again when I go back.
La Refugi CastroBar
The Hostel restaurant came highly recommended, and it didn’t disappoint. It is a cool vibe and the employees were very kind and welcoming even though we were the only patrons in there. The standout dish? A pizza-like flatbread with big blobs of cheese, salsiccia, and honey. It didn’t look like much, but it ended up being absolutely delicious.
Goma II - Gear shop and restaurant
Goma is a climber hang. It is the spot to grab a beer after a full day of cragging with your crew. The attached restaurant has a solid lineup of bar food and reliable pizza, and the space is big and welcoming. They’ve got fast, free Wi-Fi, so it’s also where you’ll find remote workers and vanlifers catching up online. It’s the kind of place where you meet future belay partners, trade beta, and spray about your sends.
Quatre Molins
We didn’t actually end up going to this little restaurant across from the hostel, but we heard great things—and apparently, it has a Michelin star. If you’re looking to splurge on a fancy date night, this might be just the spot.
Groceries
In town, we made daily visits to L’ Obaga, the small market tucked in behind some buildings near the main square. It’s got a solid selection of fresh produce and pantry staples—pastas, sauces, cereal, cookies, tea, and more. Pro tip: grab the fresh salami sticks at the checkout counter and pair them with some incredible local cheese from the big cheese cellar in town. Crag snack of dreams. If you need meats walk a block over to Cansaladeria Papio!
If you have a rest day and want to stock up at a larger store, head to Reus. It’s a bit of a drive, but they’ve got big supermarkets with everything you’d expect to find at a Safeway or Walmart.
Rest Days
If you need days off from climbing but still want to be active or are psyched on a multi-sport trip, we found an absolutely stellar trail running on the mountain just northwest of town (opposite from Siurana). You can start from town and follow a network of trails up the mountain winding all the way to the top of the plateau. Along the way, we stumbled across hidden crags, quiet coves, and stunning views. You can rack up 2–3k of vert pretty quickly, whether you’re hiking or running. Definitely worth the effort.
Gear
For climbing in Siurana, bring an 80 meter rope, at least 20 quickdraws (honestly, just bring them all), a rope tarp, and belay glasses—the full sport wanker kit. Temps can shift fast depending on the sun and wind, so make sure to pack plenty of layers too.
If you’re planning a longer trip, consider leaving your rope at home and picking one up locally from an Ocún partner shop—it’s a great way to support the local scene and save space in your luggage
Raven QD Zoom
A lightweight and versatile quickdraw set for smooth clipping and reliable handling. Ergonomically shaped carabiners with a keylock gate make rope work and clipping easier, while the polyamide sling offers a balanced ratio of durability and comfort. The carabiners are crafted using hot-forged technology, increasing their strength and lifespan.
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Airbnbs are plentiful in Cornudella de Montsant. We found a cozy spot through Airbnb, but ended up reaching out to the host directly and scored a long-stay discount. A lot of places will knock the price down if you book off-platform, so it’s worth sending a message. In the end, we each paid about $600 for a month-long stay in a small two-bedroom, split between four people.
If you’re traveling on a budget, there are a few camping options near the crags that were lively and well-populated during our visit. Many European climbers travel in vans and form pop-up communities, staying for weeks at a time to climb their way through the best crags on the continent. Camping y Bungalow Siurana, perched at the top of the hill, had a great setup, but plenty of vanlifers opted for free roadside pullouts along the stretch between Cornudella and Siurana.
Summary
Siurana delivered everything I hoped for—and more. We packed in full-value climbing days, shredded our fingers on endless crimps, and fueled our sends with cured meats and cheeses. Rest days were spent exploring the beautiful Spanish countryside and soaking up the laid back vibe of the area.One of the best parts? Meeting climbers from all over the world, swapping beta, sharing stories, and laughing around camp or over beers. It’s easy to grow your global climbing network here. And seriously if you know what’s good for you, eat as many croissants you can while you are in town. You won’t regret it.