Kyra Condie

Born in 1996, Minneapolis, Minnesota, currently living in Salt Lake City, Utah

Kyra Condie


Born in 1996, Minneapolis, Minnesota, currently living in Salt Lake City, Utah

Career highlights:

  • 2019 – qualifying to Tokyo Olympic Games
  • 2019 – finishing 15th in the combined world ranking
  • 3x Youth National Champion in bouldering
  • 2x Youth National Champion in lead
  • 2015 – 3rd place at the Youth World Championship, Arco, in combination
  • 2013 – 3rd place at the Youth World Championship, Victoria, in speed climbing
  • 8A+ boulders outdoors: Black Shadow 8A+, Amphitheater 8A+, Rocklands, South Africa
  • 8b+ lead climb outdoors: DefCon1 8b+, Maple Canyon, Utah
  • 2017 – deep water solos in Vietnam: “Pretty much every climb I accomplished there was a big mental battle so I’m really proud of all of those.”

When did you start climbing?

I started climbing by going to a birthday party at the local gym when I was ten years old. When I was 11, I joined the team and ever since then have loved climbing and never stopped.

What is your strength in climbing and why?

I think my biggest strength in climbing is my power and lack of hesitation. I grew up climbing as a young girl in a gym full of men, so I tried my best to keep up—which resulted in a style that is dynamic and burly. Usually when I can’t figure out a move on the wall, I try something and hope it works, I fully commit to it. I think this strategy works well because most of the time, even if you are trying the move wrong, you’ll do it or come close.

What is your anti style?

My anti-style is definitely anything that’s “weird” or uncomfortable. I have ten vertebrae fused in my back because of scoliosis, so I find it really hard to get into and move out of uncomfortable positions.

Do you seek routes which don´t fit you to work on your weaknesses?

Recently, with the help of my coach Josh Larson, I’ve been trying to work on my weaknesses a lot more. Having a US team training center to train at has made a huge difference in this area for me. I used to never be able to work on competition style boulders during training and now I can do it every day if I want to.

Tell us about some powerful experience you had thanks to climbing.

At the end of 2019 I went on a climbing trip with an organization called Elevated Mountain Guides that introduces refugee women to outdoor activities like climbing. We went to Zion

National Park with a few women and they told stories about their families’ experiences and how they never thought they would want to go camping before. I helped coach them up a few different climbs around Zion and had an amazing time learning from them and teaching them what I could about climbing.

Can you name and describe the most important moments or events that changed your life so far? Both climbing-related and not.

I think one of my most life changing events would have to be my back surgery in 2010. I learned I had severe scoliosis and would need to get 10 vertebrae fused. I found a doctor who was reassuring that I would be able to be an athlete, but had to take 4 months off of climbing after getting the surgery. I think it completely changed my outlook on competing, work ethic and what it means to me to be an athlete.

Within climbing, I think when I won my first ever Youth Nationals is when I fully realized that I could achieve my climbing goals if I set my mind to it. I think that paved the way for me to make goals about competing at the Olympics and becoming a pro climber.

How do you cope with failure or slow progress? Where do you get your motivation?

I try to find enjoyment in my training every day, if I feel like progress is slow, I try to change things up to not get too frustrated. I try to find motivation within the training itself, and not just in the progress, because then you can stay motivated longer.

What is your favorite climbing story, if you have one?

After qualifying for the Olympics, I went to Arkansas to climb at Horseshoe Canyon Ranch, somewhere I had wanted to go for a super long time. There’s no specific story, just a week full of good memories, but it was one of my favorite trips outside because there was such low pressure after accomplishing a huge goal the month prior.

What is your ape index?

I have a +4 inches ape index! (+10 cm)

Meine Lieblingsausrüstung:

Paddy Dominator

Oxi S